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Peak Mountain 3

Cracked Crown

FA Dakota Millard, Savana Dumler, Gabe Kahn. 08/31/2021
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

After climbing this route there was no evidence of a previous assent, there was no information we found regarding these cracks in a guide book. If you know of a previous assent or any history chime in, otherwise here's how the story goes:

Located about 100 yards climbers right of S.S Maywood, in the next obvious left facing corner. This area is well documented on pg. 149 of Orenczak's 3rd edition "The Voo" guide book

P1: Climbs a tight corner with a crack that widens to a ledge, gear belay on the right side of the ledge at the base of the obvious corner. Takes mostly hand sized pieces, a #4 was used to protect the move to the ledge. (40-50')

P2: Climbs the left facing corner via a finger crack that steepens the further you get. Stoppers worked well down low to save small gear for the steeper part of this pitch, 0.2 and 0.3 X4's protected the crux well. (45ish feet)

Descend: Rap from anchors at the top of P2 (about 100' to the ground) or walk off to climbers right. Pull ropes as far left as possible to avoid rope snags in gully.

This route was established ground up onsite in 2 pitches, anchors drilled by hand.

Location

This is the next left facing corner climbers right of S.S Maywood and the best approach is for S.S Maywood and continuing climbers right of the formation on the trail until it is possible to walk towards the cliff after passing "What the French Girl Said". My best guess is that this area is about 100 yards climbers right of S.S Maywood.

This route begins 50 feet left of Orenczak's "Lime Streaks Daydream" (an aid route that follows right angling seams through lime green lichen), and right of "What the French Girl Said". The second pitch corner is visible from the arete of Missing Tooth.

This area is well documented on pg. 149 of Orenczak's 3rd edition "The Voo" guide book.

Area not accessible from Missing Tooth area

Protection

standard rack from 0.2- #4, and stoppers