- Edit (TBD)
Description
One of many big loose chimneys on Blowjob Rock. Not necessarily any harder than the Original Route, but a tad spookier. Would not recommend.Pitch 1: Start at the saddle shared with Joe's Tower. Scramble through limestone band and drag the rope through cacti/brush to a belay at the base of the chimney. (5.easy)Pitch 2: Say a quick prayer before venturing up the extremely chossy chimney/stembox. Gear belay on obvious ledge (near large tree) above a spooky crux section on sugar rock. (5.9 PG-13)Pitch 3: Pick your own adventure through the absolutely outrageous cave system. Awesome!! ...if you're into that sort of thing. The top of this pitch merges with the Original Route. (5.8)Pitch 4: Same as Original Route, with optional belay at top of chimney. (5.8)Rappel the Direct South Chimney directly back to your packs. Or rap the north side and scramble back around (tricky).
Location
Big chimney on southeast corner of spire. Scramble up easy slabs/gully from Broken Arrow trail.
Protection
Double rack to 3" with a one or two larger cams. One 60m rope Helmet!!