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Peak Mountain 3

Choss Buster

FA Trevor Bowman and Pat Kingsbury 2/9/19
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Shares the initial, crumbly twin crack/pillar start with Flat Earth Society to a shelf at 20'. Continue straight up the OW above which starts as #5 Camalots and progressively widens to squeeze. Before the squeeze section, a splitter on the left wall offers some tips-sized pro before you burl up the hardest stretch of tight squeeze chimney for a couple of body-lengths until you can reach a fingercrack in the back of the squeeze and the splitter out left comes into reach. Continue up easier, but bizarre chimney climbing with a widening crack in the back to the large roof. Shove a #6 Camalot into the roof and awkwardly get initiated into the undercling/jam traverse left (save a finger-sized piece for this) to the shared anchor with Flat Earth Society.

This thing has cool movement if you're into the wide, but suffers from some serious Schnebly silt factor. You'll end up powder-coated after a bout with the squeeze.

Location

Follow the description on the Church Wall page to access the long traverse ledge above the limestone band. Traverse far left on this ledge. The Bad Religion Alcove is about 100' left of Follow Your Bliss, and has an exposed 4th class traverse section right before the steep gully into the alcove is reached.

Protection

(1X) .1, .2, .3, .4, .5 (2X) .75 (1X) #1, #2 (2X) #3 (1X) #5 (2X) #6 Chains. 70m rope.