- Edit (TBD)
Description
P1: (5.10b) Climb a tricky face until the large horizontal fracture that is part of the negativity cave. Belay from an anchor on the ledge.
P2: (5.10b) move right of the anchor through a roof. The bolts straight up from the anchor are for Low Gravity. After the roof, a crazy bowling-pin sized rock in a crack to your left marks the way forward. This thing wouldn't budge after slamming and wrenching it with a hammer so it should be pretty safe. Continue up the face to a crux at parallel-ish cracks. Finally, make your way up to Star Ledge, where mussies await.
Both pitches can be combined into one mega ~42m pitch that still feels like 10b+.
Be sure to lower to the first anchor! Even an 80m only gets you to the first ledge if rapping all the way from the top.
Location
A high first bolt marks the start, about 12m right of Little Buddy on the Negativity Slabs.
Protection
P1: 6 bolts to an anchor with quick links.
P2: 7 bolts to an anchor with mussies.