- Edit (TBD)
Description
A must do if you want to sample some Moores Wall style roof climbing over gear. Originally done ground up without the fixed pro and before the removal of many large loose blocks that were later trundled.
When you are at the cliff it is easy to follow these directions. Walk under Electric Dreams to access the right corner of a low ledge system. Walk left across the ledge to get in front of the large tree and climb past two bolts over the initial bulge that leads into a large chimney.
Stay on the left side wall of the chimney until you get to the ledge with a tree. Clip a bolt and stay on the right side of the face to gain a vertical crack seam before surmounting the classic tiered roof finish.
Of Important Note: Once you get to the top of the vertical crack seam before the last roof, start working 'Right' and up which will have you climbing up the east side (climbers right) of the overhang. If you go left after the vertical crack you will be going into the abyss of the airy prow on Skypilot.
Location
The most obvious line beneath the large dihedral on the right side of the wall.
Protection
Gear of all sizes plus a couple mid to large size cams to build a belay station at the top of the cliff. 'There are no anchors' as topping out the roof is essential to the essence of this line and it's 'unusual for the area' roof finish. To exit: either walk off down a chimney that is located 40' left to the east (climber's right) or use your rope to safely access several anchor options to the climber's left.
Routes in Sky Pilot Area
- 6The Space Between Worlds5.10b/cTrad