Durban Poison

Despite being directly across the road and river from the heavily-trafficked Arsenal, this hidden route rarely sees traffic and offers a nice, quiet venue away from the smuttier routes by the road.

Walk across the bridge to Fluff Boy, as per the Sno-Cone cave approach, then hook a left, going up canyon. Pass through a mini talus field below a wall with a roof (there are a few routes here of limited merit) and go another minute or two along a rough trail until you're beneath a cave in the trees. Durban Poison climbs straight out the middle of this cave onto the bulgy, red and brown stone above.

Bust out the cave, making four strenuous clips and big moves to deep holes. A lip encounter leads to some "harder than it looks" type climbing on the short headwall. The lower cave is a good introduction to the thuggy-type climbing at Rifle.

8-10 quickdraws and a rope.