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Peak Mountain 3

Chicken Sh*t Sandwich

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Description

This climb is rated 5.6 in the guidebook, and the first pitch is just that. Anyone with any idea where to exit left onto the chickenheads please post to comments....

  1. 5.6 Climb right-leaning crack until you can scrable up cl.4 section to huge, brushy ledge; fun, well-protected 5.6. 170' 2) 5.7+? Could not figure how to get off the stinkin' ledge!!! (tried left and failed) Finally climbed up and slightly right into an obtuse, ill-defined corner. Pro here was iffy and I ended up making a 5.7ish move above some less-than-ideal gear at a little bulge. After this move you are in the chicken heads. Belay where ever you want. 150' 3&4) Easy chickenhead climbing up and left. Head for the big tree as every other climb. 200'

Location

Start at huge right-leaning crack system about 100' right of Bender-Axen (around corner bulge)

Protection

Regular rack works pretty well. First pitch good (I used my #4 & #5 Camalot). Second pitch (my way) mostly small stuff in iffy rock. Third pitch slings for chickenheads.