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Peak Mountain 3

Midnight Rider

FA Ron Olevsky, solo, FFA Ken Sims, Mark Hesse, Maura Hanning (1995)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a good route on a fun tower in an really beautiful setting. All four pitches are engaging. The crux is hard and spooky but can be aided.

Pitch One – Climb the obvious crack up a shallow right facing corner to a few moves on dubious rock through a horizontal band and a two piton anchor. 5.10

Pitch Two – Ascend the beautiful corner above the belay. 5.11 R

Pitch Three – Climb past a couple angles to a corner and then make some awkward moves left under a large flake. The RC Utah book says to avoid this way as there is a death flake but I didn’t find it that scary so perhaps there was another flake that has fallen. To avoid the flake the book says to face climb left at 5.9+ to a corner that is followed to the anchor. 5.10

Pitch Four – Face climb past several angles to the summit. 5.9

Rappel from the summit to the top of the third pitch and then to the top of the first pitch.

Protection

A double set of cams to #3 Camalot with many extras from Black Alien to .4 Camalot. A set of nuts. Screamers.


Routes in The Witch


  1. 1
    Midnight Rider
    5.11+
    Trad