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Peak Mountain 3

Banana Hammock

FA Joel Irby, Dave Hoven, Evan Deis
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is THE line on this formation, it faces southeast and climbs excellent windgate rock for the majority of the climb with a spectacular summit pitch.

P1. This pitch is OW the whole way. Straight in stacking gets you into the corner system. Where a full body workout begins in a flared corner, climb 80' to the stopper roof above. Climb out this roof on #5 C4 Camalots (5.11, solid) and into an alcove where an OK belay can be made on a couple #6 Friends, a small cam, and a pin, +/- 110' (5.11).

P2. Climb up the squeeze a bit runout at first but fairly easy entering the squeeze (#9 VG) keeps the fall from being really bad. Squeeze to the anchor, there is not much gear on this pitch but not much is really needed, +/- 90' (5.8+). The FAs most likly combined this pitch with the 1st.

P3. Face climb past two fixed pieces (5.10) to a finger crack, and then continue up this fantastic summit pitch on excellent Wingate with mostly hands and thin hands, +/- 150' (5.10).

Both belays are solid with shinny new hardware throughout the climb. This is a very quality adventure. Props to whoever got it up, it looks like we missed it by maybe a year. Awesome that lines like this are still available in the desert if you know where to look.

Location

Hump your ass off, & hope to find the right wash to the base. Come in from the East or West, it's about the same distance.

Protection

You could dump 5 or 6 #5 C4s on pitch one without really trying, definitely save two for the roof, singles from yellow Metolius to #6 C4 with doubles in the #1-#6 C4, maybe 6 #5s C4 for the 1st pitch, and lots of runners. Bring two ropes as both raps are 150+ feet.


Routes in The Trident