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Peak Mountain 3

The Falcon

FA Pat Brennan & Eric Tipton 08/1994
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Topo does a good job of describing things, so I'll keep it minimal. Expect physical and blue-collar crack climbing with a really cool crux pitch which pulls over multiple roofs. We linked P1 & P2, and combined the final 3 pitches into 2 long ones making for a 5 pitch route. It's kind of a choose-your-own adventure deal after P4. This route is incorrectly called the "East Face" in RJ Secors guidebook.

Location

This route follows the straight up and down crack line on the right side of the wall. We did not go to the true summit - it looks like a rather long and involved ridgeline getting over there from the top of the route. We descended the ridge to the right (North) by downclimbing and making a couple short rappels from slung blocks along the way to get into the chute on the right side of the wall. We also rappelled past some steep snow/ice in the chute. Bring plenty of tat.

Protection

Doubles to 4"


Routes in Peak 13,040'


  1. 1
    The Falcon
    5.10b
    Alpine · Trad