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Peak Mountain 3

Wings of Leather

FA Matt Pickren, Sam Lightner, and Brad Brandewie
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route follows the dihedral system on the sw corner of the tower. A strong party could easily get the first free ascent.

Pitch One - Climb up and across a huge fallen block to the base of an obvious chimney formed by another huge block and the tower. Continue up the chimney to a large belay ledge and a two bolt anchor. There is little to no protection on this pitch but it is fairly easy. 5.8 PG13

Pitch Two. This is a long pitch. Climb the sandy crack in the corner up and through a bombay chimney passing a bolt. Above the roof, the angle eases and the crack gets wide. Belay at the ledge on the corner of the tower. 5.11, C0

Pitch Three - This pitch is shared with the original Olevsky route. Climb cracks up the outside corner of the main tower, traverse left across a ledge and continue up a short crack to a low angle face that takes you to the top.

Location

See map on the Hell Roaring Canyon page.

Protection

Double set of cams to #3 Camalot

Set of medium to large nuts

Large cams. See comments below...


Routes in The Warlock


  1. 1
    Wings of Leather
    5.11
    Trad · Aid