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Peak Mountain 3

High Country

FA Paul Humphrey
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

High above the perma-draw-ornamented buttress is the high country. If you're looking for an excellent adventure and don't mind a little dirt and some tricky pro, head to the summit of High Country.

P1: the easiest way to reach this anchor is to climb stoned samurai, but veer right at the last bolt on jugs. Clip the 420 shadow anchor and add gear if needed to reach the anchor above If. extended alpine draws are useful to mitigate rope drag.

p2: climb up for 2 close bolts and then through a dirty gully to your left. Add pro here or Run-out until you find your 3rd bolt. The rest of the pitch is bolted on fun climbing through a dihedral up to a dead tree with a chain next to it.

p3: The exposed diagonal crack leading up and right. Find placements and feet and maneuver up the exposed and proclaim your manhood at the top.

descent: walk off OR a full 70m rope will JUST reach the 1st pitch anchors or the anchors above If. Definitely tie knots in the end of the rope if you choose this option. Then rap one more time to the ground.

Location

Straight above paisano buttress, the diagonal crack.

Protection

gear to 3" including some thin pro. Stoppers were used as well.


Routes in High Country Head Wall


  1. 1
    High Country
    5.10b
    Trad