- Edit (TBD)
Future Shock
Description
Start on the beautiful sequencey face crimps about 30' left of Art's Route's corner. Climb the face to a bolt (replaced in 2016) and pull several crux moves to, into, and out of the shallow open book. The guidebook describes going left to a crack from here but due to lichen and a nearby tree it is now much more pleasant to continue climbing straight up from the crux to the top of the pinnacle.
Location
About 30' left of Art's Route. Looks for face crimps and sharp boulders below them.
You can access the route for TRing by soloing up the short 5.3 in the gully up the hill to the left and scrambling around onto the top of Tom's Thumb OR (recommended) you can lead Art's Route. There is a good spot above Future Shock for a gear anchor. Rappel Art's Route' to get down.
Protection
Small gear after the bolt leads to two pins. The direct finish continues straight up with no further protection.
The original route is 12a R.
The direct finish that was led in 2016 is 5.12c R if the pins hold, and X if they don't.
Routes in l. Sleepy Hollow
- 16Future Shock5.12aTr · Trad