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Peak Mountain 3

Heat Activated Funk

FA Chip Powell, Luke Potter 6/2019
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1.

Starts up the lowest point of the buttress into an OW. After the OW follow easier terrain trending slightly right. 5.10a, ~50m, 2-bolt anchor.

P2.

Two options exist: The right hand crack system starts with 2 bolts, layback to physical hand traverse to gain neat parallel cracks. 5.11.

OR

the left-hand crack system: Starts with 3 bolts, layback and jam your way, then turn the arête to finish with an easy runout. 3 bolts. 5.11+, ~30m, 2-bolt anchor.

P3.

Climb above the belay and into the quality parallel thin cracks then up and right following a hand crack, leave the hand crack with a hand traverse right. Gain the comfy belay ledge with a 2-bolt anchor. 5.10-, ~20m

P4.

Mantle above the belay to access the awesome corner. Tricky moves interspersed with good rests. Bring a 00 or two. 2 protection bolts, 5.11+, ~22m, 2-bolt anchor.

Descent:

Rap route in 5 single rope rappels (one additional rap anchor exists directly below the first pitch anchor).

Location

Up Laundromat Canyon (Zebra Gully) beyond the Green Room, left side of gully, about 20 minutes beyond Kadawn. ~45min total approach time.

Protection

(2 each) 00 to #2, (1 each) #3, #4.

(1) 70m rope (a 60m rope would probably work but we didn’t test it).


Routes in Heat Activated Funk


  1. 1
    Heat Activated Funk
    5.11+
    Trad