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Peak Mountain 3

2 Minutes? That's IT?

FA Aaron Martinuzzi, Jesse Ramos 2009
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Looking for a good, old-fashioned thrashfest up a gnarly offwidth? I was, but this climb failed to satisfy my wide-crack desires....

On the south face of Green Mountain Pinnacle is a prominent, right-arching crack most easily viewed from points south, such as the 5th Flatiron. This line ascends the crack to the east face of GMP; a belay can be built under a flake near the top of the wall that forms the south side of

Takin' Care of Business/ West Chimney

.

Location

This climb is located on the south face of Green Mountain Pinnacle. On foot, follow standard directions to GMP's north face, but keep heading uphill, turning south as to approach

Takin' Care of Business/ West Chimney

. Continue south for a few meters, stepping left (east) around the corner and up some blocks about 40 feet to some nice ledges beneath the crack. If you head left into the tree-filled "alley," you've gone too far.

This climb can also be approached by climbing other stuff (recommended) rather than bushwhacking uphill - scramble the first two sections of

East Face/4th Flatiron

into the alley on the south side of GMP. Then, climb

Faith and Resurrection

; once you top out, heading up the slab will bring you to the base of this crack.

Protection

This is a wide pitch; bring a single span of Camalots (new style) from #0.75 to #6 - smaller sizes for the belay, larger pieces for pro. It would not be unreasonable to solo this line, since you could wedge yourself in the crack if you got nervous.