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Peak Mountain 3

The Gettysburger

FA Todd Gordon, Kevin Sesler & Tom Atherton, February 1989
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is on the right side of The Milepost's southeast face and offers sustained, technical climbing right off the road.

Scramble up ledges to reach the start of the climb which is across a 10' deep chasm. Stem across, clip a bashie and then pull into a lieback/undercling to clip a bolt. Move up past a large, semi-solid blob of rock, clip the second bolt (1/4") and make delicate stemming moves to mantle awkwardly onto the blob (crux). Shorter climbers may find this section to be even harder as they strain for a distant edge under the last bolt. Once established at the last bolt traverse right (hint - stay low) to gain the base of a steep, featured crack which is followed to the top. It's possible to climb straight up past the last bolt and join the crack higher, where it jogs slightly left. Done this way it's a little spicier (but safe) and seems more like 5.11a.

This route packs a lot of good climbing into a small package and it's steeper than appearances might suggest, which earns it two stars out of five.

Protection

"fixed" bashie, 3 bolts (3/8", 1/4"), pro to 1", bolted anchor/rap


Routes in The Milepost