- Edit (TBD)
Description
A very enjoyable route with some fun, moderate and a bit of hard climbing mixed in. The quality of rock, setting, sea of slingable chicken heads and lack of need for a giant rack make this climb a must do.
Pitch 1: 180 ft - 5.10+. Starts with well protected 5.8 slab to a stance below the bolt. You can place a BD .5 camalot below the overhang before clipping the bolt. Back clean the cam and place it below the big roof. Pull the roof and place a BD #1 or 0.75, than an offset purple/blue metolious or something like a green or a blue alien before clipping the bolt. One more bolt before the crux and a few more exciting moves before reaching thank god chicken heads. Climb straight up to a chicken head/bolt belay.
Pitch 2: 160 ft - 5.superfun chicken head jug haul to another chickenhead/bolt anchor.
Pitch 3: 150 ft - 5.10a. Great friction 5.8-9 slab past 3 bolts and a 5.9-10a move to pull the overhang past another bolt. More chicken heads take you to a chicken head anchor belay. Cool pitch.
Pitch 4: 130 ft - 5.6. Bolt off the belay protects the 5.6ish climbing to a cool yellow dike. Hike the dike and continue up low 5th terrain till it starts getting really easy. You can belay in a large stack of blocks to your left.
Location
Starts just left of Welcome to Wallmart and right of The Boardwalk Chimney
Protection
Single rack from BD 0.5 to BD #.75. Blue/Purple offset useful for 1 placement in a flaring crack on P1.