wigged out

Did just fine with a 60m rope, as below, but required some downclimbing at times as the middle of the climb is all slab without a place to establish an anchor!  First pitch was the most fun, and the rest was a bit nerve racking with the run out.  Evidence of someone appearing to have bailed off after the first pitch and sacrificed some nuts in the process.  See

http://www.sekiclimbing.com/little-baldy.html

for an awful and vague description of this route that doesn't mention any of the runout...

P1: Follow the crack system up to the roof.  Good spot for gear anchors there roughly in the middle under the roof, where it is easy to hang out for your 2nd.

P2: traverse right, under the roof, then go vertical once it becomes easier.  Some slab here with intermittent cracks for gear.  Keep going up (and slightly right) where you will find a crack system to set up another gear anchor.

P3: continue upwards towards another crack system, with intermittent slab.  This belay position is the least comfortable.

P4: slab city without any cracks for protection, going roughly up and a bit left.  Run out on the order of nearly 100ft, but eventually after you will hit a set of old rusty antiquated anchors.  Unfortunately there is nothing else for protection.

P5: more run out slab.  There is an old piton that you can girth hitch a thin sling through for protection--otherwise largely blank.  At this point you could go roughly right and up, around the contour of the dome, to the valley where there are some trees, for about 40-50ft of run out until you get to a ledge system where there is opportunity for another anchor, then a 4th class walk up to the summit and take the hiking trail down, OR...

P6(continuing up): didn't do this myself as it was getting dark and the runout was a bit much, looks like one could go up and left on 50+ft of easier and more "rolling" slab to the crack system in the right facing obvious dihedral (finally a protectable crack!) and likely continue for 1-2 pitches of much less run out climbing to the summit.

Start is just to the to the right of the large 50ft rock block with a tree on top of it, at the base.  You can access it by walking along the base from the climber's trail.  Follow the base of the cliff just past this big block, and right before it starts descending again scramble up approx 10ft to an area with a few shrubs, where you can access a crack system going straight up to a roof.

one set of old rusty anchors and a piton, otherwise gear anchors