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Peak Mountain 3

Field and Stream

FA Tony Sartin and Bob Gaines, September 2012
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This link-up connects the start of Good Housekeeping to Stone Hinge, offering a 35 meter pitch of varied climbing on excellent rock. One of the longest and best pitches on the White Cliffs.

Begin with the start of Good Housekeeping. After the first bolt (5.10c) continue up the vertical crack to a ledge. Step left onto an arete and climb a slabby ramp past 5 new bolts (5.10-), then move right and jam a short but sweet finger crack (now on Stone Hinge). Move left at a horizontal fingertip crack to a ledge, then step right and lieback a tricky arete past 2 bolts (5.10c), moving right after the second bolt up to a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.

Location

You can lower-off or rap with a 70 meter rope.

With a 60 meter rope you can make a short rappel to the Popular Mechanics anchor then rappel 85 feet to the ground.

Protection

8 bolts, a 1.5 to 2 inch CD for the crack after the first bolt, then medium to large stoppers and CDs from .25 to 1 inch for the upper crack.