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Peak Mountain 3

Gunslinger

FA Scott Cosgrove and Bob Gaines, April 1990
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Begin about 200 feet right of

Figures on a Landscape (aka Monkey on My Back)

, just right of the lowest point on the North Astro Dome.

Pitch 1: 12b, The "Moguls" pitch. 8 bolts. 5.9 up to the first bolt, 5.7 R to 2nd bolt, then up the moguls (5.10) to steeper, well-protected slab climbing (11b above 4th bolt and 12b above 6th bolt), then traverse left (5.10a) to a bolt belay.

Pitch 2: 11b, Steeper edging on perfect rock (5.11b) up and left past 4 bolts to another bolt belay.

Pitch 3: 12a/b/c, The "Headwall pitch". A height-dependent bouldery move right off the belay (5.12, V4/5) then follow incredible edges up the gently overhanging wall (11+) 7 bolts. Belay on a narrow ledge with a bolt anchor.

Pitch 4: 12a, The "Coral Corner". Tough stemming (5.12-) past 2 bolts in the corrugated corner leads to easier climbing past another bolt to the top. There was a fixed pin between the second and third bolts on the first ascent.

Protection

Bolts, pro to 3 inches