West Ridge

From the col between Stuart and Sherpa Peak ascend up the ridge, generally heading towards climbers left. With a 60 meter rope, you can reach the first belay station in a cave feature, which has a platform that 4 to 5 climbers can stand in comfortably. The crux of the climb is the crack leading out of the cave (5.4-5.5). Continue ascending towards climbers left and to a platform where you can build an anchor next to a rappel station. From here, scramble down and across a gully to the third pitch of climbing, which heads to the lowest point on the summit ridge. After gaining this ridge, it is a short 4th class scramble to the notoriously airy summit block. Some parties elect to protect the slab scramble over to the true summit, or set a hand line for followers.

The descent consists of 4 single rope rappels down the ascent route.

Approach from Longs pass to Ingalls Creek. Pass the trails heading up to Stuart and to a meadow where a boot path marks the beginning of the approach. Cross a stream, and continue ascending, staying to the left of the ridge. Around 5,800ft cross over the ridge and gain the boulder filled basin where Sherpa comes into view. Continue up this basin, generally heading to the col which is closest to Sherpa's west ridge.

Two camp spots are located in this basin, one at 6,200ft and "Table Rock" which is a bivy spot at 7,400ft.

Standard alpine rack (Draws and slings). Singles of .2-.3 Doubles in finger sizes (.4-1), Singles of 2-3. One set of nuts.