- Edit (TBD)
Description
Climb this route in one or two pitches from the bottom of the canyon. If this grade is easy for you do it as one long pitch by extending all your alpine draws. A double rack to #3 will work and single set of stoppers. If it is at your limit or close and you want to do it as one long pitch take a triple rack with only 2 # 3s and a single set of stoppers. Or break it into two pitches and use the double rack. Fourth class up clean very low angle corner and move left to a thin hand crack/corner and the first short crux. A few moves lead to easy climbing on flakes and fins. This section has been checked with a crowbar and anything that moved is gone. Some are a little hollow sounding but solid and the climbing is easy enough you don't need to pull hard. Belay below the dark alcove if you are not doing the whole thing. Climb to the alcove working right around it more easily than expected. This sets you up in a sweet lower angle dihedral with good pro and another crux move just above a small horizontal ledge. A small wire or brassie is nice after the move. Then follow the crack to the lip. A wedge shaped block has been well tested with a crowbar and is solid. Above this another interesting (crux) section will keep you focused. Finally good hands and face holds get you to the lip.
Location
Right of Beyond Nuts. Rap to the ground where marked on the photo topo.
Protection
Double rack to blue Camalot, single set of stoppers with some very small for one spot.