Orange Julius

This is one of the classic climbs at Lumpy, it has varied spicy climbing the whole way. The first pitch begins at the southeast corner of the Bookend. Look for an obvious corner capped by a large triangular roof 40 feet up.

P1. Lieback up the 5.8 dihedral to the bottom of the roof and undercling the entire length of the roof, .10a or b. The holds on this section are all really positive, but the feet suck, make sure to place pro after the crux for the second. Belay at a bolt anchor by an obvious tree on the left.

Variation: climb up until you're about 5' below the roof, place pro, and downclimb about 10'. Then do a rising traverse left (5.9) to the edge of the roof.

P2. The second pitch is short. Continue up the crack on 5.8 climbing and angle up right on an easy face to the base of a large flake. Belay at some slings.

P3. For the third (also short) pitch head right around a blunt arete and do a 5.8 foot traverse. This part is pretty runout (30' or 40' fall potential) for both the leader and second. At the end of the traverse squeeze up an easy wide crack and jam a 30' 5.7 hand crack to a belay in a corner.

P4. For the fourth short pitch, traverse straight left on an amazing 5.7 flake. This traverse is about 40', really exposed, and really easy. Belay off #2 Camalots at the end of the traverse.

P5. For the fifth pitch, climb up a runout 5.8 crack. #3 and #4 Camalots could help on this section.

P6. For the final pitch do a typical flared lumpy chimney (the most strenuous 5.7 you will ever do) to its top.

Then scramble a rope length of 5.0 stuff to the very top of the rock.

This is an awesome varied route, although it is six pitches, they are all very short, we did in a couple hours. Be prepared for several spots of runout 5.8.

Bring a standard rack; #3 and #4 Camalots can help out on the last 5.8 pitch.