- Edit (TBD)
Description
Pitch 1: Angle up and right on flakes, surmounting corners and flakes as needed to reach the base of the dihedral with several cracks. 100 ft, 5.8.
Pitch 2: Stem, jam, scum, and pull your way up the left facing corner. After 70 ft, step right and climb a face to a ledge. Build your anchor on the left side of the ledge. 100 ft, 5.9+. This pitch can be linked with Pitch 1.
Pitch 3: Head straight up the V-slot, jamming up beautiful double hand cracks, which then turns into a single wide hands and fists crack to a big comfy ledge. 5.8, 140 ft.
Pitch 4: Climb the splitter fingers and hands crack on the right wall. Take this to a big ledge at 70 ft. Optionally belay here, or continue up the easy slab with sparse protection. Zigzag up the slab to followin protection opportunities, and exit to the right around a small roof. Loose rock in the upper half, but the belayer is out of the way. Belay at horizontal cracks above. 5.9+, 170 ft.
Scramble another 150 ft to flatter ground.
Descent: Walk off to the south to the Highlands Camp.
Location
0.25 miles climber's left of Icarus on the north face of the wall. Step back from the wall and locate a splitter crack in a V-slot left of an 8m tall golden buttress. That's what you're aiming for.
Protection
Doubles of camalots #0.4-#3. Less in hands if you are cozy in those sizes. Bring a #5 or #6 to try an alternate OW exit after the first half of P4 on the right!
Routes in Cirque of the Sun
- 1Solar Winds5.9+Alpine · Trad