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Peak Mountain 3

Crack 5

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Description

Great, splitter route! Rated 5.9+ in the Vogel Joshua Tree guide but so straight forward that 5.9 is more apt if you've wired your handjamming technique. Towards the top the crack forks: continue up the left side for more of the same handjamming (5.9) or go right for a steep fingers section (5.10a/b). Take the right fork for an exciting, pumpy finish (highly recommended)!

Location

This splitter crack is located in Isles Corridor. Approach the Isles in the Sky crag by scrambling up third and fourth class slab. On the ledge where Bird of Fire is, keep walking left around the wall past Dolphin and Nectar. Scramble up and over the slab on your right to find Isles Corridor. Immediately on your left is a 5.2 crack up the slab, which can be used as a descent from the formation. Alternatively, rap or lower from the slung rock above the routes.

Crack #5 is the Y-shaped crack to the right of Crack #4. Heading left at the fork continues the 5.9 hands, while heading right is steep 5.10a/b fingers.

Protection

Lots and lots of hand to wide-hand size gear. If you plan on finishing with the fingers section, take a couple finger sizes (I placed two yellow Metolius here). Nuts may be useful for the finger section, as well.