Monkey Puzzle

Monkey Puzzle climbs the large overhang right of

Puzzled Monkey

and is the first route you pass on the way up to the Brown Cloud crags. A clean, vertical face gains a good stance below the roof. From this stance, a pair of large jugs sets up a cruxy move to the lip with the left hand - from here on out the puzzle begins. I had an opportunity to try and solve Monkey Puzzle with Pat Burwick and Greg Purnell, on separate occasions in February. While I thrashed away, the younger, smarter pair threw a heel hook on the left and swam over the roof. Monkey Puzzle is a fine problem that just begs to be misinterpreted: trying to overpower it will likely fail whereas solving the technical puzzle will let you pass on superb kinesthetic movement.

Seven draws (eds. currently 6) and a rope.

A of 3/6/21, the 2 bolt anchor has Mussy hooks.

Originally, this was done on gear on the lower face. The upper bolts were placed ground-up.