Where Eagles Dare

A great variation on the Flower Tower Headwall. 1st variation - starts from the same ledge as The Great Escape but immediately traverses right out past a little Bonsai tree or 2nd variation - rappel 160ft to a ledge with a new bolt. Start climbing just left of the belay up a steep slab on good rock. Gain a thin seam in a wide book turning a couple small bulges. Climb up to a 4-5ft roof and turn the roof left on the prow. Clip a bolt and gain the Bonsai tree mentioned earlier. From there head up to a little roof, traverse a little right then turn the roof and step back left into a tiny seam (bolt). Follow the seam for a few body lengths until the seam becomes a good flake/crack system. Follow this crack to the top.

The pitch has a nice combination of good rock, thin face big roofs and splitter crack to make it well worth doing. The pitch is just left of an old route in Mike Hill's guide called Cattle Rustlers. I'm fairly certain that this line is not the same route.

The route starts from the ledge at the base of The Great Escape or rappel 160ft in from the top to a new belay stance at 1 bolt and some gear. The little Bonsai tree, that you can see from the belay ledge is a good landmark to get on route.

A rack of small gear from tiny to 2", make sure to have doubles in the .33 to 1.5 inch range and RPs. There is a bolt at the belay ledge one at the first crux roof and another at the second roof, three total.