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Peak Mountain 3

Black Ice

FA Dan Kennedy and Chris McNamara, October 2003
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route starts with flaring fingers and pods in a grainy crack before pulling a roof to the left.

Following is a crack system punctuated by several ledges and generally arching right before heading straight up towards the anchors. This crack system makes its snakelike path above another diverging, right-leaning crack that is considerably thinner and harder looking (Frequent Flyer, 5.11b).

Black Ice is a little dirty and grainy in sections, perhaps, but the great finger and hand jams make up for it. A testy little 5.10+ lieback section defines the high crux.

Location

Towards the end of the cliff band. Obvious anchor where several crack systems meet. The belay is below a small tree in a small but adequate sloping dirt and rock ledge. Get cozy.

Protection

Fingers to 3", optional 4" for finish