Fear and Loathing

Pitch #1: Begin at the left side of a "tunnel" at the base of the wall. Climb up to a good ledge at the bottom of the main crack system. 5.7, 75ft.

Pitch #2: Climb the steep varnished crack. Mid way up you encounter a roof that is, obviously, turned on the right. Continue up to a nice trianglar ledge and belay. The belay takes acouple of small pieces where the wall meets the ledge and or #1 camalots. 5.10+, 110ft.

Pitch #3: Continue climbing the sick varnished crack. Starting out #1 camalot size and the progressing through the sizes to a #4. Belay near the top of the formation. 5.9+/5.10-, 215ft.

The route is located on the obvious varnished wall at the top of the Gemstone Gully.Note that while the routes in this area are associated with Gemstone Gully, the approach does not take Gemstone Gully. Rather, follow the Dale's Trail north from it's intersection with the Fire Ecology trail for about 3/5 of a mile. At that point, look for cairns which mark a winding path along a slight ridge in red sand.  See attached gpx file.After gaining the notch between the Approach gully and the Gemstone gully, drop down and then go up the middle of the Gemstone gully. When you reach a cliff/impasse go up and left. Leave your pack here. Go up the chimney on the left. Continue going up left until you can traverse out (right) onto the terrace directly below the varnished wall. Scramble up to the base and pass through a short "tunnel". The climb begins from the left side of the tunnel.To descend, go down to the left of the wall. Either drop down into the stick gully (which I did not do) or head back east aiming for a large pinon pine. Do a short rappel off the tree (currently no slings) into the chimney to the east. Scramble north down the chimney to a rappel off a large scrub oak. After this rappel scramble down onto a large ledge. On the east side of the ledge, rappel from a large block aiming for another large Pinon Pine. From this pine, it's possible to scramble back onto the terrace at the base of the wall. Towards the center/bottom of this terrace is a good bolted rappel anchor. 1X 70M rope puts you back at your pack. Then descend the Gemstone gully.

Nut's 1 set. 1 Green and 1 Yellow Alien. 2 each Red Alien to #4 Camalot.