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Peak Mountain 3

Sisyphus

FA Larry Goldie and Scott Johnston
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

An enjoyable day with some great pitches on clean rock and a couple throw away pitches on decent rock. Expect Afternoon sun.

1: 5.7; 6 bolts; 100 ft

2: 5.9; 7 bolts; 100 ft (Easily linked with P1 with a 60)

3: 5.10b; unprotected 4th ramp out right, 10 bolts. 150 ft. Awesome.

4: Easy 5th. Pass a set of chains on the left; 2 bolt; 140 ft.

5: 5.8; 7 bolts; 100 ft

6: 5.11a; 8 bolts. Very thin, well protected crux. 80 ft.

7: 5.10a; 12 bolts; 160 ft.

8: 3rd class ledges.

9: 5.9; 10 bolts; 100 ft

10: 5.6; 7 bolts; 100 ft (link w/9).

Many parties will opt to descend after the 7th pitch as quality deteriorates.

***Raptors nest on the Diamond point buttress above. May-July. If you top at the treed ledge, please do not continue higher, and do not talk, walk around, or attempt to walk off during this Spring nesting season; leave as soon as possible.

According to a biologist "If the raptor notices you, and changes their behavior in any way, please start your descent"

Thanks! MVClimbers

Location

The right (south) side of Goat Wall. Park at the BIG pullout 3 miles past the Mazama Store. Look for a trail just right of the yellow "curved road" sign. Do NOT approach from the Prime Rib trail (thats what we did and it sucked). A 20 minute approach.

Once close to the wall, look for a giant, solitary pine tree, go left up a climbers trail around the toe of a buttress, then back right up a ledgy ramp.

Protection

A baker's dozen of draws will do it if trying to link the first two pitches. Bringing extendable draws is advised in dealing with rope drag.