- Edit (TBD)
Description
Fun face climbing through 8 or 9 bolts before crack/chimney system that accepts gear. Seems that most folks are mistaking this route for GAC Rulz and thus climbing rack-less. I've found a leave-it draw and biner on the uppermost bolt on 2 separate occasions w/in the last month (I too thought I was on a sport climb ). A skeleton rack would get the would-be adventurer past the surprisingly solid crack before one could traverse left to Mom's Rock's anchors if s/he didn't have a hankering for chimneys.
Jim Scott and Eric-Fazio Rhicard added a direct start and a sport link-up to Family Affair in 2014. This variation is airy and supposedly better than the original. The variation is all sport and 10-.
Location
Bolted face be/ Mom's rock and GAC Rulz
Protection
Original: Quickdraws, small rack
Link-Up: Quickdraws
WARNING: A 70M rope barely reaches if one climbs the link-up. Be careful and tie a knot in the end of your rope.