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Peak Mountain 3

The Diamond

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Description

A not climbed very often semi-classic - which has some loose sections to negotiate.

The triangular face has a ramp which runs diagonally from the bottom left corner to right of what looks like the top. There's a shattered wide chimney at the start which as some loose rock, climb this and follow the ramp up and rightwards, with some high exposure, for a few pitches. Route finding is a challenge towards the end of the ramp, find the path of least resistance until the right ridge of the face can be followed leftwards to the top of the face.

From here there's a towered ridge which leads to the summit, which will require more pitches/simul-climbing.

Descent from the summit is via the Class 3 East Ridge.

If pressed for time one can descend a gully between the top of the face and the towered ridge westwards to a steep drop off, where a 100' rappel gains less technical ground.

Location

Follow the faint Jigsaw Pass Trail, the route starts on the left side of the face.

Protection

Standard trad rack of nuts and cams, no need to double up.


Routes in Two Eagle Peak


  1. 1
    The Diamond
    5.6
    Alpine · Trad