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Peak Mountain 3

Slap & Tickle

FA M. Rangel
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UPDATED 

Description

This is the huge overhung chimney visible just above Atlantis when driving back to Phx from the Pond. It is kinda spooky looking, shady east facing wall. Climbs like a trad route with bolts. Crux is difficult stemming to pass the roof.

Location

Walk up stream from Atlantis main area to just around the corner, work your way up about 100ft to base of overhanging chimney. The route goes up the broken face passing two bolts to gain the chimney. Another route exists just right on the face to the same anchor. It's called Black & Tan.

Protection

You could bring gear for the second pitch but I don't recommend it. A couple of extendable draws and quick draws (10 total).

First anchor shares top with Black & Tan on a small ledge. Second is great big ledge where I hang the We Love Oak Flat banner. Rappels are easy on first two pitches. If you go to the top its a short rappel but difficult pull.

Last rappel puts you on a precarious ledge just right of the start.