Newb Mudtality

​​​​When trying to find the start of this line, look for the most improbable path to the top on the northwest side of the tower.  We decided not to try to climb to the chimney due to the questionable rock in and leading out of the chimney to the summit. It appears someone has climbed a pitch on the northeast side of the tower to the chimney but failed to reach the summit. But maybe not?

Pitch 1, A3-

. Begin up a thin beak seam leading to a bolt 20 feet off the ground. Continue up the series of seams with 2 more widely spaced bolts (A3-). The last half turns into a mix of clean/hammer aid (A2). Reach a two bolt anchor under a small roof.

85 feet.

Pitch 2, 5.6 C2 R

. Aid out of the left side of the roof on some horrific rock. Cut left, on even scarier rock, and continue left up the obvious crack system (C2). Mixed free and aid with loose rock leads to the summit ridge. From the summit ridge, make an awkward, chossy mantle to the top which must be down-climbed.

80 feet.

A double 60M rope rappel north from the summit ridge gets you back to the ground.

A conservative rack will consist of:

A selection of medium/large peckers/beaks, spectres, angles (small/medium/large), and a double rack of cams from BD C4 #0.3 to #6. I also found z-pins and z-pin stacks to be helpful but not mandatory.

Did not use knife blades/bugaboos or lost arrows. The double #6s are helpful on the second pitch.