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Peak Mountain 3

Through Thick and Thin

FA Rob Kelman & Eric Wright, 1993
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is an excellent two pitch route!

P1. Climb the offwidth crack until you hit the big roof. There aren't really any good crystals to work with, so you'll need good offwidth technique, and the going is a bit slow and grunty. I really appreciated a #6 here and also placed a #4 and #5. Turn the roof on the left side. There are good hand jams to be had and some small feet on the face, but piecing it all together is a bit tricky. Once past the roof, continue up the now easy hand crack to a big belay ledge.

P2. Climb another shorter offwidth crack protectable by a #6 cam, and ramble up easy terrain to the base of a short #4 crack. You can get an optional belay - we stopped here as we weren't sure how difficult this part would be, and we wanted to eliminate decking potential due to rope stretch. When all was said and done, this brief crux didn't feel as hard as the climbing on the first pitch. A few interesting moves including a butterfly or two lead to easy climbing and a large plateau below the summit.

Continue to the top via the final short pitch of

Wright of Thick and Thin

(7),

William

(9), or the crack between the two (9).

Descend via a single rope rappel from the anchor above Arch Stanton. There is reportedly also a walkoff.

Location

This is one of the more striking lines on the sunny south side of the Holdout. It is near the left end of the crag. Look for an offwidth crack in a big, right-facing corner under a large roof.

Protection

Double Camalots in hand sizes and singles in smaller sizes. Bring singles of #4, #5, and #6.