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Peak Mountain 3

Space Pants

FA Dave Salazar, Dan Kennedy
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

"My shorts boldly go / Where no shorts have gone before!"

Fun lead on featured, colorful rock; in a nicely shaded hang out area. Comes up a short wall with decent holds to a "gutter," across a bulgy ledge, up chicken heads, and finally around a corner to quick links at the anchor at the end of a mini-dihedral kind of thingy.

Notes for lead First bolt is a little high compared to others in the area, but not cruxy. Because the route wanders and traverses, keep in mind that a lead fall could mean a swing and some bruises; wear a helmet.

Notes for TR Although it's only 6 bolts long, this route takes you through some fun variety. However, it can be an awkward toprope with risk of swinging and crashing into the wonderful features on the rock face here if you don't set up directionals. After leading, consider leaving draws up as directionals and have the second climber top rope from the other end of the rope, cleaning as they go. Or, just pull the rope through and lead it again. Woo!

Rappel down.

Choose your adventure: Consider topping out and getting on the start of Sabre 5.6 or War Hammer 5.8 after completing this route.

Toprope beta: Continue to the climber's Left along the crag and up the not-so-obvious path between the crag and a giant boulder where a tree grows, continue uphill until you can take a Right onto "the platform." Once at the start of Sabre 5.6 and War Hammer 5.8 you can step to a low point on the platform. The anchors (quick links) for Space Pants will be below your feet near the edge. Rappel down, setting draws as directionals as you lower for a much improved toprope experience.

History lesson: So what does "Space Pants" have to do with castles, medieval times, and the lore of King Arthur and the Knights of the Round Table?? Nothing! The route setter and affiliates for this fun lead weren't too concerned with staying on theme. "Space Pants" have been a big deal lately and are coming back on the scene. Especially in the climbing community these garments are of great value, namely those of the "leggings" variety and/or those including kittens. However, Space Pants is also a legend of comedy and takes its name from an old old ooolld Saturday Night Live skit called "Mafia Meeting." For the complete Space Pants experience, please access the links below.

Video and lyrics for your enjoyment

goo.gl/mKJjHb Song only (for the drive to Castle Rock??)

goo.gl/t7heOp

youtu.be/MwpmqMnngRk

Location

West facing area of Armory Wall, between The Pike 5.9 at the South West corner and the not-so-obvious path between the crag and a large boulder where a tree grows (which leads to "the platform"). First bolt starts high. Featured wall with all kinda contours and colors from red lichen and such.

This route happens to be situated directly beneath the start of Sabre 5.6 and War Hammer 5.8. Consider linking this route with another.

Protection

6 bolts to quick links at anchor. A little run out at the start. Besides the start, Space Pants has sufficient protection, as good as can be, but a fall on this route could still bang you up pretty good.