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Description
This scramble is a great adventure that takes you into the mouth of August Canyon. The rock is for the most part solid granite, but be careful of loose gravel over the surface on ledges. It is the definition of fourth class, and quickly gains great exposure over the north face of the head.
Start up low angle fourth class from the western end of the headwall, about 100' right of the dihedral that Spicebox climbs. It's a pick-your-own-adventure style route, so go up whatever looks good and aim for a large ledge about 80' up. At this point, start traversing right. Somewhere in here is the first of several old bolts on the route. There are just enough to let you know you're on route. Keep traversing right, gaining no elevation. When you come to a bolt with ring and second nearby bolt, traverse down and right (do not be lured into going up) around a corner. At this point you should see cairns built on a boulder in a small amphitheater type formation. Keep following the easiest line up and right into August Canyon.
Overall a super fun scramble on (mostly) good rock.
Location
Route starts about 100' right of the dihedral at the western end of the Headwall, then traverses right and over the Sacred Grotto Cave up into August Canyon. I highly recommend looking at the route from the parking lot; look for what looks like fourth class. It's all low angle, and looking from a distance will help with route finding.
Protection
None. There are about 4 rusty 1.5'' drop in bolts with Leeper hangers, so there's no pro. No real options for anchors of any type. Fourth class. Solo it.