- Edit (TBD)
Description
Many high quality Trad lines up here. Not quite Paradise Forks or the waterfall, but definitely some similarities. Once you dial the approach, you are at the base in 30 minutes. Stem up, finding pro in diagonal pockets, clip 2 bolts and grunt through a short OW. Continue up the dihedral on great pro. Pick your finish for the final 25 feet: 1) Head left on crimps up the beautiful orange wall, clip two bolts and slap for the top (5.11a). Thread rap anchor for lower or rap. A 60 will just make it. 2) Continue up the hand-crack and top out. Build an anchor (OMG! The horror); plenty of boulders/trees to sling. Take up your second and enjoy the view (5.9)! Easiest rap is from the top of Luminary Luebben, on the rim, about 40 feet to the SE.
Location
Start at Lugano St and hike towards the gulley between east and west Elden. Pick your way up the drainage, past beautiful boulders until you reach the slab approach described in Upper Middle Elden Canyon. If you hit the black streaked waterfall (Chute Area), you have gone about 150 yards too far.Once you reach the cliffs, contour left, and pass Porcini; Miscreant Mori is in a large dihedral about 50 yards left of Porcini. Two tan bolts are visible starting at 30 feet.
Protection
Singles, BD blue thru #1, 2-#2, nuts, few runners, few QD's.