Unknown 5.8

This is an adventurous pitch, thanks to loose, dirty rock and baffling bolt locations. Anchor your belayer to the drilled angle piton on the south end of the big ledge. Move up a few feet, and traverse straight left for about 15 feet, passing above two bolts that are hard to clip. Then angle left-ish, and follow the way of least resistance to the third bolt. A fall from below the third bolt could put you on the rocks in the approach gully. After clipping it, I climbed down and unclipped the second bolt, so my second wouldn’t be faced with a nasty swinging fall. Traversing to the first bolt was scary enough.

Above the third bolt, I climbed to a ledge and placed a #3 WC Friend (modern size) to protect getting to the fourth bolt. I could have placed smaller sizes, but I wanted to save those for the unknown yet to come. Getting to that fourth bolt was difficult and required trial-and-error routefinding. Above it were more difficult moves to a ledge, where I placed a good 2.5 Tricam. Above, a short crack took a red Totem and a bombproof #8 Stopper placed endways. Above the fifth bolt, I could see the chains.

Start at the base of

Little Wing

, and traverse straight left, past two equally low bolts.

The route line on the photo is worse than “approximate.” For one thing, the top of

Green Room

is only ten feet left of this route’s anchor, and it doesn’t show the long low traverse at the start.

The first two of the five bolts should be relocated. I placed a #12 Stopper endways, to protect the start, and other gear as mentioned in the description.