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Peak Mountain 3

Chompin' at the Bit

FA Steve Schneider, Phil Green, 1990
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This deserves to see some traffic.  A nice counterpart to it's neighbor Failsafe that is also, for almost it's entirety, on rock of similar quality. Characterized by techy steep crimping to start, tricky sequence reads in several places, and surprisingly pumpy climbing over it's length. Not a good warm weather or direct sun route as the rock is polished.

Start off the small fallen tree extending out over the lower pool.  The first bolt is high and a little right to direct the leader out into the void in the event of a fall.  Shorter people may need to use a short stick clip if they can't reach the bolt.  Years ago the tree wasn't there but it was pretty similar; bridging instead from the boulder to a high bolt across the void.  Mixed blessing, with the tree it's easier to clip the bolt and pull on but the tree could be a falling issue so a high first bolt is even more desirable.  The crux second bolt is close and not that hard to get to, the extra height provided by it should prevent any problems with the tree.

Once committed to pulling onto the wall acoss the void the game is on.  The crux is almost immediate, followed by several tricky to read boulder sequences.  Good stuff.

Location

Immediately right of Failsafe.  Obvious, starts off the fallen tree that extends out into the void above the lower pool (tree is wedged between the boulder and the wall).  If the tree goes could still be started via bridging as was done originally.

Protection

12 bolts, mussies.