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Description
A striking parallel crack line splitting a 30-degree overhanging wall. Starts out with a few ringlock/lieback moves, then some tight hands and hands, a kneebar rest in the broken out section, and finally crank over the lip with some big cupped hands. 10 feet of easy 5th class leads to the top. Numerous features for feet help keep the difficulties down.
An obscure classic; one of the best crack climbs in SB.
Location
This splitter crack is on a steep south-facing wall 100 feet north of Saddle Rock proper. The line can be spotted from the trail. Starts on a small ledge halfway up the formation just left of the crack. Scramble up to the base or rap in from the top.
Protection
Cams from 0.75 to 3 camalot. A massive oak tree anchor exists at the top, set back about 15 feet. Bring plenty of cord/webbing to set a TR anchor.
The rock is very coarse here, tape is highly advised.
Routes in Saddle Rock Area
- 1Rock on the Coast5.10Tr · Trad