- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is an incredibly fun route with varied styles/movement throughout.
Make delicate moves to get off the ground and find yourself navigating a body-width or narrower slot with good, albeit sandy, fingers in the back. Worm up through this as the crack thankfully flares and widens.
Good gear in the back lets you breath easier before tackling the widening, then narrowing, slot. Wiggle up, slam a big piece in up high and then grunt your way up and out the curving OW to the right. Don't get spit out!
Upon exiting, find a good jam and take a breath because from here it's sustained to the anchor. Traverse right on good hands until the crack pinches down and angles upwards. Move through the final series of moves, including a "thank god" finger lock, and then throw for the hand jam at the anchor.
Location
The route is an obvious line on the upper tier of the north aspect of the buttress and can be easily spotted from the parking/campsites at Jolly Green Giant. See photos.
Best approach is to gain the upper tier to the west of the route (near Down Range) and traverse east (left) along the wall to this climb.
Protection
Doubles .4-#1 and a single #6 for high in the OW. (Could possibly place a #2 or #3 at some point but def not necessary).