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Peak Mountain 3

Double Dominatrix

FA Mark Rolofson, May 2004
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This a probably my favorite route at Dude's Throne and the one I was most drawn to establish.

I have redpointed it 13 times as of 2010. Scramble up to a ledge & clip 1st bolt. Move up right on easy terrain to 2nd bolt. The first 5.12 crux ascends a vertical edge via lieback moves. Enter a right-facing, right-leaning dihedral that is followed to a double set of roofs. The second 5.12 crux uses small holds to reach jugs over the roofs. The third 5.12 crux uses small holds to get stood over the roof on the jugs. Continue up a steep face to a small 5.11 bulge that leads to a good ledge. Move right a few feet on the ledge & rest up! Finish up a bulging .12a face, moving up left past the last 2 bolts.

Location

This ascends the center of the south face.

Protection

12 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor. The 5th, 6th, and 7th bolt have had fixed chain draws with 3/8" quicklinks and carabiners, since the FA. For easy cleaning of the bottom four draws, clip the climber's end of the rope through each fixed draw when lowering.