- Edit (TBD)
Description
First Section (CL3):
Class 3 scrambling gains the North East Ridge, which is initially almost a plateau; it narrows as you begin to gain height. Evenually the first big step in the ridge is reached, where the ridge levels off momentarily.
Second Section (CL4)
On the left a ramp/ledge system runs across the east face - follow this first downwards then gradually up to the huge broken pillar which runs up the face.
Third Section (5.7)
Two exposed crack pitches lead up this top part of the pillar. The second pitch follows a crack to end at a roof, where a hand traverse heads left, then up a short crack to finish at the second notch east of the summit.
Scrambling leads from here to the summit block.
Solo down the Bolton Brown (South Face) Route (5.4).
NOTE: East Ridge itself was FAed in 1948 by Fred Davenport and Standish Mitchell. This route bypasses the crest of the ridge by traversing down onto the East Face.
Location
Approach from Sixty Lake Basin (to the east).
Starts along the Northeast Ridge but detours onto the East Face.
Protection
Small trad rack - passives work fine.
Routes in Mt. Clarence King
- 2East Ridge Indirect5.7Alpine · Trad