Belly Friction

Crux is the very last move all the way at the top. I about sh** my pants the move is so scary. The crux move goes as follows...two feet on a ledge, then your trying to jam a hand in this wide slopey crack while your right hand is on a sloper. Then you have to stand on this tiny tiny quarter inch foot hold (which is high on a bulge) and worm up this completely flat area of rock until you can reach around the end of the boulder sitting on top. But I just kept feeling myself slipping on my stomach and it was freaking scary. You feel amazingly exposed. But it was gnarly for this grade.

Start in the obvious crack and work your way straight up to the crease between the main boulder and the smaller boulder on top. Then traverse right and prepare to shrink your balls for the crux/top out.

3-4 pads