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Peak Mountain 3

Ledger's Bulge

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Description

Awkward top rope or heady lead. Seemingly harder at a glance, but once the beta is uncovered and the mental crux is overcome it's pretty fun. Climb very directly to the overhang crimping up the initial thin face.

A small nut protects the first overhang, and some very very long runners protects the second large overhang and crux. Reach high for a horizontal crack. Fall potential is all over the place, but after placing a piece and pulling the lip you can breathe a bit easier. Finish on the Lunch Lady crack and belay on branches, or finish up on the Stairway by traversing to the right (low 5th) to a gear belay.

Location

Located between Lunch Lady Land and Stairway/Juicifer. Find the massive overhanging bulge above a large ledge in the dead center of the Lower Lunchbox wall, its the largest feature on the wall and pretty hard to miss. Align yourself under the overhang and climb a direct line to the top. Staying a little to the right and avoiding the better holds on the initial face is a fun/thin little challenge.

Protection

Lead: Set of cams to 3.5", set of nuts (down to micros). The crux is hard to protect, but a large (#4 or #5) Camalot and very long runners can be helpful. Be careful with slinging boulders on the ledge. Wear helmets!

Top rope: Lots and lots of webbing for the trees, the positioning makes it a bit awkward to top rope. Back up with gear.