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MapDescription
This is a worthwhile climb that can be easily toproped (with 2 ropes) after leading
Simian Sex
. Start the same as Simian Sex but then traverse left into the adjacent crack system. Climb up until the crack becomes a thin flake and then nothing. Reach left and clip a bolt and then crimp your way across small edges (11b) to join the Loggerhead Ledge Route for a short section. Instead of following the chimney cut back right into another crack that leads up to the anchors on Simian Sex.
Protection
Pro to 2"
Routes in 2. Loggerhead Buttress
- 9Log Jam5.11bTrad