The Tehipite Sanction

11 pitches (1200') below the main ledge, then apparently joins Too Hip for the final 6 pitches (1200').

The lower route can be approached by rapping down the route from the main ledge, and it was worked that way on the first ascent.

If approaching from below, scramble up ledges for a few hundred feet, to a 1 bolt belay on a ledge.

1. 5.9 corner with some bushes to a bolt belay.

2. 5.12

3. 5.11- cool dihedral with bolt and pin at the blank sections

4. 5.11 triple roof to 150' of 3-4" crack, including an 80' section of dead vertical 3.5"

5. 5.13- bouldery start to long thin crack in corner.

6. 5.11 techy slab

7. 5.10+ steep black corner

8. 5.8 corner

AAJ story:

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12201109200/Tehipite-Dome-Tehipite-Sanction

See additional photos in Rob Pizem's blog:

http://pizem.blogspot.com/2010/08/tehipite-dome-part-1.html

http://pizem.blogspot.com/2010/08/tehipite-trip-contd.html

http://pizem.blogspot.com/2010/08/tehipite-climbing.html

http://pizem.blogspot.com/2010/11/california-summer-aka-tehipite-dome.html

Approach for the North Ridge, then descend the gully to the main ledge.  Rap the lower route to reach the start.

If starting from Tehipite Valley, add another 600' of 4th and lower 5th class on the approach pitches.

Triple rack to 3.5", 1 each 4" and 5".