The Kokanee Corner

The Kokanee Corner is an unreal test piece for a desert tower. 3 incredible pitches make this route one of the best lines in the desert! You gotta have all the tricks for this beast -- Crimping, ninja stemming, OW and everything in-between.

P1. Climb Egg Drop Soup 5.12

P2. The money pitch! The first half of this pitch is bolted and the second half is all gear. This pitch has 3 main sections and they are all unique. The hardest moves of the pitch are found in the first three bolts with a V6 strait into a V8ish boulder problem on very thin holds with poor feet. A few bolts of easy climbing with a nice rest lead to a very wild 5.12 stem with a V3 exit move. The final section of this pitch is both the redpoint and mental crux -- after clipping the last bolt bust a mantle into the start of the corner. Totally insane stemming and wild body english are involved for this section. A few key thin finger locks give a few shakes but the whole crux of the corner is less than tips. The corner finally opens up towards the end to good fingers to the anchor -- A full on 40m pitch!

P3. 5.12 finger crack with a very cool boulder problem off a hand jam. Finish on the last OW pitch on Sacred Space.

80 Meter rope is crucial for working the crux pitch.

3 Grey C3s

2 Purple C3s

2 Green C3s

2 Red C3s

Double Set set after that