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Peak Mountain 3

You Don't Want Me Baby

FA Win Cowger, Victoria McGruer, April 2021
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UPDATED 

Description

The route is extremely wandery so whatever pro you place at the start should be cleaned by your second once you get up to the first big ledge. Then you follow the large chimney system up and right. Immediately after the nice splitter crack (see photos) there is a rotten chimney with no solid protection until where the roof goes horizontal. The rest of the climb is good quality rock but this section is what gave it the PG-13 feel to me. Do a few slab moves across the horizontal section to the right and gain another crack system up (long runners useful here). Follow some more ledgy cracks to the top and belay from a gear anchor in small cracks past the large block. I don't think I would do this climb again, the chimney section was extremely rotten with large loose blocks in it. However, if you felt confident enough to avoid the chimney section and go straight up the face, you may have more fun than me. I put myself and my partner down as the FA only because we aren't aware of another documented ascent, but it is such a poor route that someone probably already did it and didn't want to put their name on it, so ours will do for now. The only thing this route has going for it is nice views from the top of Lenticular Dome and proximity to Mental Physics.

Location

The start of this route is around the corner from "Don't you want me baby" next to a tree between two flakes that face each other (see photos).

Protection

Single rack up to 3. Doubles in smaller sizes < 0.75.